“So, yo dude, are you going to spit any of these wines cuz I’m not sure how I’ll make it through 22’ish wines and still be sitting in the chair” was the question posed to Paul while out exercising mojo (the loveable pooch) and freezing my ass off in a white (why would I wear a white shirt to a wine tasting??) dress shirt and no jacket. Ha, the answer was something about only spitting if they sucked. Well, I’m happy to report that not a wine sucked and I did indeed make it through the evening. One mitigating factor was that we started the dinner at roughly 5PM and didn’t finish until 2AM. How’s that for taking your time and these wines were not quickly tasted and spit but enjoyed, sipped and gulped over the evening. The second was that each course was paired with an absolutely riveting dish that at times, easily overshadowed the wines and encouraged us to slow down and enjoy drinking these phenomenal bottles… and drink em we did ladies and gentlemen! Hats off the Susan (and sous chef Paul!) for one of the best meal I’ve ever had and I can’t say enough about her sheer food knowledge or cooking ability. The menu was as follows:
Fritter of Baccala with White Truffle
Baccala pouched in milk and churned together with potato and olive oil; a touch of sage and white pepper; finished white truffle pieces.
Pan-fried Rabbit Loins with Braised Fennel, soft Polenta & Fresh Black Truffle
Boned rabbit loins stuffed with a pate’ of veal tongue, mortadella (Emilia Romagna), hazelnuts, prunes and thyme; wrapped in imported pancetta and served on a bed of soft organic polenta from Piedmont and garnished with strands of braised fennel and black truffle.
Palline di Carne con le Mele in Brodo “Little Marbles”
Hand crafted Brodo Ristretto di Bue, a long and slow cooked broth from roasted meat that is concentrated and “twice cooked” to intensify the deep and earthy flavors of the beef and root vegetables. Small meat balls made from veal loin, veal tongue, herbs and hard pecorino are added to the sumptuous broth.
Sweet Pumpkin Hand Crafted Ravioli
Slow simmered pumpkin stuffed in a very rich (all yokes) pasta. Served with browned butter and sage.
Wild Boar Ragu served on Paparedelle
Minced shoulder of Wild Boar slow simmered in fresh porcini and rosemary sauce.
Insalata
A salad of grilled fresh figs and gorgonzola dolce on a bed of arugula with walnut oil; garnished with hazelnuts and 25 year balsamico tradizionale (hand carried from Modena-Emilia Romagna).
The rabbit loin and polenta dish was one of my top dishes ever and when the shaved black truffles hit the heat of the dish, you could literally smell them from across the room. Simply a stunningly prepared and presented meal!
As to the wines, I know as much about the 1997 vintage as any gumbie that spends a couple hours researching online so I’m hesitant to make any predictions on where these wines are in the evolution or their aging capability. Having said that though, I will say that all in all, I thought these wines were outstanding, young tasting and blended beautifully ripe fruit with structure, acidity and balance. Roasted, low acidity, falling apart? Not a chance.
In attendance was Paul David and his lovely wife Susan, Takeshi Kataoka (aka TK), Wayne Lumpkin, Brad “keep it in the glass” Vanderpool, Eran Shapiro and the loveable master of affairs Rico.
Now onto the wines!
Starters
We warmed up the the 2004 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane and I couldn’t be happier with how this bottle showed with some air time. Just a stunning wine with floral and honey notes but also riveting acidity and balance that kept it clean and refreshing. We actually had the 2002 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie the following morning with breakfast. Ha, now that’s a serious breakfast for champions!
- 2004 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Certainly the top Viognier that I’ve ever had the opportunity to taste to date; this shows beautiful ripe fruit, flowers and honeysuckle aromas backed up by smoky oak notes. Full bodied and precise, this has a lush texture and a very long finish. (95 pts.)
- 2002 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A beautiful wine that exhibits a brilliant nose of ripe apple, butter, toasted nut and subtle oak aromas. It’s medium bodied in the mouth and shows a much more mineral driven character with flint and chalk flavors. The fruit is rich and the wine displays plenty of depth and length. (92 pts.)
Barbaresco flight #1
An interesting flight that really highlighted the Rabaja vineyard and it wasn’t until the following flights that I realized how similar the flavor profiles on these wines really were. The 1997 Ca’ Rome di Romano Marengo Barbaresco was certainly the most evolved and while it lacked the concentration and depth of the others, was silky, perfumed and delicious. The 1997 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà was seemingly young and almost primary but with air, really opened up. The 1997 Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabajà was stunning with rich fruit and jobs of structure and palate wise, had a lot in common with the 1997 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà. This is the second bottle of the Cortese I’ve had and while this stared out with a evolved, almost funky bouquet, it just explodes on the palate with ripe, almost gamey fruit and showed even better than it did a year ago..
- 1997 Ca’ Rome’ di Romano Marengo Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
This was drinking beautifully and seemed fully mature with a cherry red color and some lightening at the edges. The nose showed dusty earth, spice, rose and cherry aromas while the palate was medium bodied and beautifully balanced. This shows medium concentration on the mid-palate has possesses a delicate, charming character. (88 pts.)
- 1997 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Showing a dark red color with a purple hue at the edge, this has a pretty, floral and spice driven bouquet of sour cherries, strawberry, spiced meats and flowers. It’s balanced with young, almost sappy fruit and subtle tannins on the nice finish. (92 pts.)
- 1997 Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Aged for 18 months in Allier oak, this boasts a dark purple color and a stunning, not so shy nose of black cherry and black berry fruit aromas that are framed by tar, roses, vanilla and new oak notes. Medium to full bodied with a structured, powerful texture and medium tannins on the long finish. (93 pts.)
- 1997 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
From Cortese’s 10 acre parcel in the Rabaja Cru from vines ranging from 15 to 25 years old and aged in neutral casks. Slightly exotic with spice, cherry, forest floor and scorched earth aromas, this has a rocking palate that shows sweet, concentrated fruit, great texture and a very long finish. (93 pts.)
Barbaresco flight #2
This flight took things up a notch and the standout for me was the 1997 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi. Simply stunning, this wine had it all with beautiful fruit, perfect balance and a stunning texture; it was hard to stop going back to this wine for another sip. In striking contrast to the Albino Rocca was the 1997 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros with a surprising modern and vanilla laced style. There was more than a little discussion on a possible switch between these two wines but the conclusion was that the wines were labeled correctly. Does this wine have enough fruit to stand up to the wood and vanilla? It certainly does right now but who knows down the line. Or was this just a freak bottle? The 1997 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano was excellent. Perfumed with red cherries and spice notes; this had a silky, almost elegant demeanor. The 1997 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco was probably the darkest colored wine of the flight and also the most structured and backwards. Still after tasting this barbaressco and the Barolo later in the evening, I’m the new biggest fan of this producer.
- 1997 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Wow, this rock star wine possesses a dark red/purple color as well as an almost perfect bouquet of dark, earthy fruit, black cherry and spiced meat aromas. Seriously rich and almost decadent, it’s medium to full bodied, beautifully balanced and finishes with medium, sweet tannins. This seemed to close down with air and the tannins really came out to play and showed a slight drying character that might hint at this being at maturity. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques. (96 pts.)
- 1997 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Very modern styled with a big, ripe nose of cherry and raspberry liquor mixed with vanilla and spice aromas. Medium bodied with ripe, sweet fruit that’s carried into the long finish by medium tannins. (92 pts.)
- 1997 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Drinking beautifully, this wine highlighted the silky, perfumed style of nebbiolo. Beautiful spice laced cherry fruit is backed up by smoke, tar, rose and earth aromas and there’s a subtleness and smoothness to the aromas that keep you coming back for another sniff. The palate is stunning with light, almost airy fruit, great balance, sweet fruit and a long finish. (93 pts.)
- 1997 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Big, masculine and amazingly structured, this bad boy needs some cellar time to chill out. Never the less, it’s seriously impressive with traditional neb aromas of tar, earth, minerals, smoke and violets. Very tight and structured, this has awesome, decadent fruit, almost perfect balance and a very long finish. This really took some coaxing and air to wake up but is a great bottle of wine. 94+ (94 pts.)
Barolo flight #1
The first lineup of Barolo’s came off as young, tight and slightly angular next to the decadent Barbaresscos of the previous flight with the 1997 Ca’ Rome di Romano Marengo Barolo Rapet seeming almost overtly acidic and slightly disjointed. Both this wine and the 1997 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis improved over the course of the flight. The 1997 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello generated a lot of discussion with the majority of the group feeling the wine was excessively flawed by brett. While the wine did show some brett in my glass, it in no way crossed into my flawed category and the palate on the wine was beautiful. The dark, dense and rich 1997 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco was the highlight of the flight and just beautiful. Rich, precise and traditional, it’s in need of some cellar time but is in no way unaccessible at the moment.
- 1997 Ca’ Rome’ di Romano Marengo Barolo Rapet - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
High toned with sharp, VA laced cherry and citrus fruit aromas; this has a nice palate with vibrant acidity and a medium length finish. (87 pts.)
- 1997 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Very young and hard to evaluate, this shows bright cherry, fresh cut roses and citrus notes on the nose. The palate is medium to full bodied with concentrated, sweet fruit, noticeable acidity, great texture and medium tannins on the finish. (90+ pts.)
- 1997 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A controversial nose of roasted fruit, dust, earth and subtle metallic brett aromas. The palate is stunning with sweet, very rich fruit, a full, soft texture and a long finish. (89 pts.)
- 1997 Pio Cesare Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This shows rich, earthy fruit, fresh cut roses, tar, and subtle herb aromas on the nose. Structured, young and just packed with fruit, the palate is stunning with nice depth and length. 93+ (93 pts.)
Barolo flight #2
The fourth flight contained some seriously delicious wines with the highlight being the 1997 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina . Simply stunning and the palate was crazy good with rich, decadent fruit but also precision and balance. The 1997 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vecchie Vigne and the 1997 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra were both utterly delicious and slightly overshadowed the 1997 Vietti Barolo Brunate. Of course, the only corked wine of the evening ended up being one of mine. Sorry guys.
- 1997 Vietti Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The nose is clean, bright and beautiful with earthy fruit, roses, minerals and spice aromas. This gained richness and depth with air and showed interesting truffle and new saddle leather notes. The palate shows amazingly rich, sweet fruit, nice precision and a long finish. (93 pts.)
- 1997 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A real wow wine that’s jam packed with black cherry, dusty spice, truffle, and tar aromas. As it sat in the glass, this picked up a decadent coffee and cocoa note. Beautifully balanced and medium bodied, this is amazingly pure, precise and clean with a very long finish where subtle, fine grained tannins kick in. (95 pts.)
- 1997 Azelia Barolo San Rocco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Corked NR (flawed)
- 1997 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vecchie Vigne - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Very rich with lots of depth, this shows cherry, raspberry, spice and big floral elements overlaying underbrush aromas on the nose. With air, this picked up a subtle potpourri and spice meat component that added complexity. The palate is awesome with great balance, rich sweet fruit and great length. (95 pts.)
- 1997 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
While this started out very tight and closed, with some coaxing it finally gave off super rich cherry, potpourri, spice, oak and subtle vanilla notes. The palate is truly stunning and is in the top of its class. Big, full bodied, very rich and with awesome weight and depth, the texture is something to behold. (96+ pts.)
Barolo flight #3
We originally planned to have this flight and the next together but in my view, wisely decided to split them up. The 1997 Gaja Langhe Conteisa seemed like an odd man out slightly with an almost cabernet like herbaceous streak. Full bodied and incredibly textured, it was slightly overshadowed by a crazy good 1997 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Bricco Rocche. Good lord was this wine outstanding and has everything you could want in a wine. Amazingly complex, slightly exotic, powerful and with amazing length, it was also amazingly enjoyable to drink!
- 1997 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Conteisa - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
This shows a unique and interesting nose that while possessing the standard nebbiolo aromas of cherry, spice and earth, it also showed a deep, rich herbaceous note that set it apart from the other wines of the evening. Medium bodied and silky, this is amazingly texture, deep and long. (96 pts.)
- 1997 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Bricco Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Taking things up another notch, this wine is phenomenal with huge earth, dirt, tar and peppered beef aromas. With air, violets, spice, gravel and tree bark aromas just smack you in the face and the depth and richness to the aromas are stunning. Full bodied and amazingly structured and powerful, this damn thing is a sight to behold. Very rich with an extremely long finish. (97+ pts.)
Barolo flight #4
Talk about some interesting comparisons. Each of these wines was mind blowing and the absolute equal of the other yet each in a completely different style. The 1997 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Liste was as text book nebbiolo as they come for me and had everything. Textbook fruit, beautiful acidity, perfect balance. The 1997 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis was staggering in it’s richness but also in its almost un-barolo like style. Who cares though and I could drink this all night long. Just a beautiful mouthful of a wine and easily the most lush, open and ripe wine of the night. Despite these descriptors, it was impeccably balanced, pure and long and I was utterly in love with it. The 1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino seemed slightly harsh next to the Sandrone at first but the more I tasted the two side by side, the Monfortino actually turned this comparison around and made the Sandrone appear soft and almost over the top. The Monfortino is a neb on steroids and is a perfect wine that’s all about structure, perfect fruit and balance. I’ve no doubt his will improve with age but it hit every one of my sweet spots on this night.
- 1997 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Liste - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Just about as perfect an example of nebbiolo as I could dream up, this isn’t lacking a thing. Black cherry, minerals, roses, cedar and truffle aromas lift out of the glass and while this still has a youthful austerity to it, it’s still staggering in its complexity and depth. Medium to full bodied, perfectly balanced with a pure, precise edge, this has a killer, smooth texture and a 45+ second finish. (98 pts.)
- 1997 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A hedonistic dream, this is the most lush, ripe nebbiolo I’ve ever had. Super ripe and sweet fruit is framed by raw meat, spice, potpourri and vanilla aromas. The palate is perfection with full body, a soft, lush texture that just fills every nook and cranny of your mouth and amazing length. (98 pts.)
- 1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A polar opposite to the 97 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis, this is all about structure, balance and power. The nose is slightly reticent at first but with air gives off dark cherry and black berry fruit mixed with serious mineral, iron, white pepper and violets aromas. The palate is full bodied and perfect. Structured, concentrated, precise, pure, long, you get the idea. (99+ pts.)
Dessert wines
We finished up with the 1999 Girolamo Dorigo Picolit Colli Orientali del Friuli Montsclapade paired with a phenomenal almond cake that couldn’t have been any better. I haven’t had many Picolit wines so this was interesting to taste. The 1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage is probably the most structured port I’ve ever tasted. This exemplified the iron fist in a velvet glove and I loved every sip.
- 1999 Girolamo Dorigo Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit Montsclapade - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Colli Orientali del Friuli
Possessing a deep gold color as well as a perfumed nose of sweet, honeyed fruit, earth and browned butter, this showed subtle botrytis notes with air. Full bodied and balanced with a long finish. (92 pts.)
- 1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Whoooaa baby, this is a serious port and despite having gobs of rich sweet fruit, it has an iron core of fruit that doesn’t budge much. Rich and heady with plum, tobacco, cedar and spice aromas make up the bulk of the nose and the palate is full bodied, amazingly structured and firm with awesome balance and length. (95 pts.)
Talk about a cap to an outstanding evening.. err morning… the Taylor sent me over the edge and after chugging a couple glasses of H20 and downing some advil, I stumbled down the stairs and said my prayers that the room wouldn’t start to spin.
I feel extremely fortunate to have been able to participate in this tasting and a million thanks out to everyone that contributed!
